Lexique Horloger

Automatic (winding)

A self-winding mechanical watch is a watch whose mechanism is powered by the energy naturally supplied by wrist movements. The oscillating weight, responsible for resetting the barrel spring, is moved by the driving force of each of our movements.

The RALF TECH WRX, WRV, WRB and Académie models are available in self-winding mechanical versions.

Ardillon

A pin buckle is a classic fastening system for a watch strap, similar to a belt buckle. The pin is a small articulated metal point that fits into one of the holes in the leather strap to lock the buckle. Simple and precise!

RALF TECH buckles are suitable for bracelets 26mm or 22mm wide. They are available in a range of materials and finishes: titanium, polished 316L steel, brushed 316L steel, matt bead-blasted 316L steel, matt bead-blasted 316L steel with black PVD coating.

Arm

Synonymous with winding. Winding a watch means putting it back into operation after a period of non-use (automatic winding watches) or simply on a daily basis (manual winding watches). Winding a watch involves manually or automatically tensioning the barrel spring so that it can accumulate energy, which is then distributed to the movement.

Aperture

The aperture is an opening in the dial for displaying information. This is usually the date and the day.

Annual calendar

The annual calendar is a complication that indicates the date, day and month, and automatically takes account of 30- and 31-day months. With this complication, your watch can be set just once a year, in March.

Barrel

The barrel is a cylindrical case containing a spring that gathers the force accumulated by the spring and distributes it to the gear train. In the case of an automatic winding movement, the spring is wound by the wrist, and in the case of a manual winding movement, by the winding crown.

Box

The case is the main protection of a watch and protects the mechanism from shocks, humidity and dust. It consists of a main part called the case middle, containing the movement, dial and hands, to which the various external components are attached. The cases of RALF TECH models are solid to protect our movements and enable our watches to withstand the majority of external aggressions.

Brushing (steel)

Synonym satin finish. The term ‘brushing’ is used when the polishing movements produce a coarse finish, and ‘satin-finishing’ when the finish is finer to the eye.

Bezel

The bezel is the element that frames the watch. It can be fixed or rotating (unidirectional or bidirectional), and graduated to help measure a phenomenon and record data, such as a dive time.

RALF TECH models complying with the ISO6425 ‘diving watches’ standard are all equipped with professional 120-click unidirectional rotating bezels.

Caliber

Originally synonymous with ‘dimension’ in the name of a watch movement, calibre now refers to the movement itself. Followed by numbers and letters, the calibre indicates the origin of the movement, its reference, the name of the manufacturer, etc. Some brands produce their own calibres, known as ‘manufacture calibres’.

The RALF TECH calibres are the RTE001 electric, the RTH002 hybrid, the RTA002 and RTA003 automatic and the RTAC001 and RTAC002 automatic chronographs.

Carat

The carat is a unit of titration for gold alloys. We know 9K, 14K, 18K, 22K and 24 K gold, the purest gold also known as fine gold. The gold most often used for watch cases is an 18-carat (18K) alloy, which contains 18/24 e or 750/1000 gold. Abbreviated ct, the carat is also the international unit of weight for precious stones and semi-precious stones.

Carbon SMC

Carbon Tech® by RALF TECH is an innovative material from the SMC carbon family. A truly exceptional material, it consists of long carbon fibres with multidirectional woven reinforcement. Its virtues are its lightness, its high mechanical performance, its excellent chemical resistance and also its strength, which is essential for our professional customers.

Case middle

The case middle is one of the three main parts of the case housing the movement. It is located between the case back and the watch bezel.

Complication

Watch complications are numerous. They refer to any function other than indicating the hours, minutes and seconds. The best known are the date, the large date, the chronograph, the moon phase, the second time zone (GMT), the power reserve, etc. Watches with grand complications may also have a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, a tourbillon, etc.

Crown

The winding crown is a button used to wind the watch and set the time, days, date, etc. Some crowns, particularly those used on diving watches, are screwed in to ensure that the watch is water-resistant. Sometimes the winding crown also acts as a pusher, and is used to trigger the chronograph mechanism.

All RALF TECH watches have a crown designed to guarantee perfect water-resistance in accordance with the ISO6425 ‘Diving watches’ standard and beyond.

Chronograph

A chronograph is a watch that indicates the hours, minutes and seconds, and also has a complication whose purpose is to measure the duration of a phenomenon. This is achieved by activating a hand, which can be stopped and reset by simply pressing the dedicated push-pieces. The minute and hour counters on the dial show the number of revolutions made by the chronograph hand.

There are 10 chronograph models in the RALF TECH collection.

Dial

The main metal part of the watch, where all the indications are given: hours, minutes, seconds, date, thanks in particular to the hour-markers. The dial can come in a wide range of colours, as well as being engraved, guilloché, lacquered, enamelled, etc.

Diving Watch

According to the 2018 ISO6425 standard, a diver’s watch is a wristwatch that must withstand immersion in water to a depth of at least 100 metres, i.e. the equivalent of 100 metres of water column, and that has an elapsed time control system, i.e. a unidirectional mobile bezel enabling the relative time of the dive to be measured.

All RALF TECH ‘diving’ models comply strictly with ISO6425 and even exceed it in terms of maximum water resistance, with actual values ranging from 200 to 1000 metres.

Flyback

Flyback is a function originally designed for aircraft pilots. This complication enables timekeepers to restart a new count by simply pressing a pusher, without having to stop the hand, reset it to zero and start it again.

Grooved / fluted

Grooves are small grooves made along the length of a stem or knob so that you can grip it firmly without your fingers slipping. Like on the winding crown, for example.

All RALF TECH crowns are fluted to make our watches easier to grip and set quickly.

GMT

GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) is a watchmaking complication that simultaneously indicates the time in two time zones. Originally created for Pan-Am, the American Air Force, this function enables the wearer to set his or her watch to the time in force in the place where he or she is and to the time in force at home. This is why timepieces with this complication have always been associated with frequent flyers such as pilots.

Guillochage

Guilloché is a decorative engraving technique used on the dial or certain watch components. These engravings form intersecting or intertwining lines or curves. Guilloché engraving can be done with a chisel or a lathe.

Gold (white, yellow, pink, red)

Gold is a noble material that is widely used in jewellery and watchmaking. The most common gold alloy is 18K. With a hardness of 3 on the Mohs scale, compared with 10 for diamonds and 6 for steel, gold is a precious and very malleable material, so great care must be taken. Yellow gold is an alloy of 75% pure gold, 12.5% silver and 12.5% copper. White gold or white gold is an alloy made up of 75% pure gold, silver and sometimes palladium. Rose gold is an alloy made up of 75% pure gold, 20% copper and 5% fine silver.

Horns

Attached to the case middle and located at the ends of the case, the lugs are used to attach the strap to the watch. The small bar that fits into the lugs through small holes, which also pass through the inside of the bracelet to hold it in place, is also known as the lugset.

A special feature of RALF TECH’s WRX models is the use of threaded rods aimed at the lugs to prevent the straps from being ripped off.

Hybrid / Hybride (winding)

A Hybrid movement is both a quartz energy system and a self-winding mechanism. Explanation: the Hybrid generates the energy needed to power itself by using the movement of the wearer’s wrist. This energy is then stored in an accumulator with a lifespan of up to 15 years. Working without batteries, this movement has a very low impact on the environment and achieves extraordinary energy savings: 100 million watches equipped with the Hybrid system would use no more energy than a 100-watt light bulb! RALF TECH has been using the Hybrid movement since 2008 in its RTH001 version and in its ultimate RTH002 version since 2013. Some WRX and WRV models are also equipped with it.

Index

The index refers to the hour markings that have gradually replaced the Roman or Arabic numerals, generally running from 1 to 12 on the dial. Indexes can be painted, screen-printed or applied.

Luminova® / SuperLuminova®

Luminova® is a luminous substance deposited on the hands, numerals or indexes of a watch. It absorbs light and releases it in the dark, giving these elements excellent visibility. In the past, the substance that performed this function contained radium, which has radioactive properties. It was replaced by tritium (also radioactive but to a lesser extent), then by Luminova® and SuperLuminova®, both registered trademarks.

All RALF TECH indexes have one or more layers (depending on the model) of SuperLuminova® applied to all or part of the dial for better time reading in dark conditions.

Manual (winding)

A hand-wound mechanical watch must be wound by hand. The spring is wound when the winding crown is pressed.

Movement

All the parts that make a watch work. In a mechanical watch, the movement comprises the winding and time-setting mechanism, the gears, the escapement and the balance spring. On average, a movement consists of 130 parts. But the simplest movement contains 51 and the most complicated in the world contains 1728.

Moon phase

The moon phase is a complication that indicates the different phases of the moon. A lunar cycle lasts 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 28 seconds and is made up of 4 phases: new moon, waxing moon, full moon and waning moon.

Non-magnetic or anti-magnetic

Amagnetic and antimagnetic are synonymous terms. A watch movement is usually made up of moving metal parts. This movement can be seriously disrupted when certain parts become magnetised. The proof is that a watchmaker will always demagnetise the calibre he is reassembling before adjusting it. To reduce this risk, the most sensitive parts (balance-spring and escapement, for example) can be made from non-magnetic metals or alloys. The RALF TECH WRX Millenium and WRX Millenium Lefty models are non-magnetic.

Oscillating mass

Also known as the rotor, the oscillating weight is a semi-circular part used to automatically wind the barrel spring. It is often made from heavy materials that favour oscillation.

Pendulum

This is a circular moving part of the movement that oscillates on its axis of rotation. Its function: to regulate the advance or delay of the movement by oscillating regularly.

Perpetual

These are old terms that designate either a movement with automatic mechanical winding or a watch with automatic winding.

Push button

The push-piece is a button that is pressed to start the chronograph. On some water-resistant watches, the pushers can be screwed on to ensure that they are not activated by mistake underwater.

Plate

The plate is a part of the movement that supports all the mechanical components, including the dial. It is pierced at strategic points to accommodate all the components.

Platinum is the most precious of metals, stainless and heavy. It is sometimes used in the creation of watch cases for high-end timepieces.

PVD

PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) is a metallic coating process, a surface treatment applied to the case and bracelet of a steel watch, for a 100% colour finish, usually black. The black RALF TECH models are treated using this process.

Plexiglas / Acrylic

Plexiglas or acrylic lenses, two types of plastic, were used in the 60s and 70s. Easily scratched and not very water-resistant, they have now been replaced by glass, either mineral (scratch-resistant) or sapphire (scratchproof). Glass is now found only on vintage watches and inexpensive models.

Polishing

An operation carried out by a watchmaker to restore the case and bracelet of a steel watch to their original appearance by erasing all micro-scratches, with a matt or shiny finish. Polishing is also carried out on gold watches.

Perpetual Calendar

The perpetual calendar is a complication that indicates the date, day and month, and automatically takes into account months of 28, 29, 30 or 31 days, whether or not the year is a leap year. With this complication, you don’t need to make any date corrections to move from the last day of the month to the 1st of the following month.

Quartz

A quartz movement works thanks to a quartz plate (mineral) which communicates its vibration frequency to the watch circuit. This vibration is made possible by the energy impulse of a battery and not by manual or automatic winding, as is the case with a mechanical watch. The new RALF TECH WRX electric models use an innovative long-range quartz movement that requires no maintenance for 10 years.

Steel

Steel, an alloy of iron and carbon, is a material commonly used in watchmaking. There are many types of steel, but the most widely used for watch cases is 316L steel.

At RALF TECH, we use 316L surgical steel to guarantee the strength and durability of our watches, but we also use titanium, bronze or SMC carbon for certain special series.

Stop

In a calibre with a stop (or hammer), the oscillating weight does not make complete turns on its axis. Instead, it rests on springs, moving alternately in one direction and then the other.

Sapphire (glass)

Sapphire crystals are found on the dials of most recent top-of-the-range watches. Virtually scratch-proof, it is sometimes added to the case back to allow the watch movement to be admired (in which case the water-resistance is reduced).

RALF TECH uses only sapphire crystal. The WRX model’s sapphire crystal is the thickest in the world, measuring 5.9 mm.

Satin finish

Synonymous with brushing. A polishing operation that can be applied to the case of a watch or to a steel or gold bracelet. The surface is ‘brushed’ to give the parts a matte, lined appearance.

Spiral

The balance-spring is a small spiral-shaped spring (part of the regulating organ) that regulates the movement of a watch. It returns the balance wheel to its initial position to start a new oscillation. Its quality has a major impact on the accuracy of the time given.

Second hand

The second hand is the name given to the seconds hand, which follows the oscillations of the balance wheel, advancing by jerks (to the point of being almost linear in some movements). The large second hand is fixed to the centre of the dial, while the small second hand is placed on a separate dial.

The second hands of the RALF TECH WRX, WRV, WRB and Académie models are available in several materials and finishes (steel, silver, black-treated steel, gold) and are all highlighted with SuperLuminova® for optimal time reading in the dark.

Tachometer

The tachymeter scale on a watch is located on the dial flange or on the (fixed) bezel of the watch, most often on car-inspired watches. Its purpose is to help calculate the speed of a moving body over a given distance. The information indicated by the chronograph hand on the tachometric scale can be read to determine the average speed.

to cover a given distance (usually 1000 metres). RALF TECH WRV ‘Tachymeter’ automatic chronographs are equipped with a tachometric bezel graduated up to 400 km/h.

Tourbillon

The tourbillon is a mechanical device developed by Breguet to counteract the effects of the Earth’s gravity and thus make movements more precise. The watch can gain or lose seconds depending on its position. By rotating the balance wheel, escapement wheel and anchor in a mobile cage, the effects of gravity are compensated for, eliminating any deviation in rate when the watch is in a vertical position.

Titanium

Titanium is a recurring material in watchmaking, particularly in the manufacture of cases. It is appreciated for its resistance to corrosion and for its lightness. There are different types of titanium classified by grade from 1 to 5, each with different aspects and properties.

The RALF TECH WRX Millenium has a Grade 1 T35 titanium case. This titanium cannot be satin-finished or polished and retains its raw, matt appearance. It can, however, develop a patina over time and become darker.

Work-study

The alternation per hour represents the frequency at which the balance oscillates from one point to another. The balance wheel of a mechanical watch performs between 18,000 vibrations and 36,000 vibrations for the most accurate.

Watertight / Sealing

Water-resistant watches have specific water-resistance gaskets and a screw-down winding crown and case back. For each watch, there are water-resistance recommendations issued by the brands, with water-resistance levels indicated in metres in ATM, or in bars. Some watches do not tolerate any contact with water, while others are water-resistant to over 1,000 metres. Between these two thresholds, there are several variations. For most brands, these values are based on calculations and are therefore purely theoretical.

RALF TECH systematically carries out sea tests in real conditions to validate its calculations. RALF TECH watches are therefore among the only watches in the world to show real, tested water-resistance values on their dials down to a depth of minus 1000 metres.

Winding

Synonymous with winding. Winding a watch means giving the movement a new impetus, either automatically or manually.